On the paper an ND32 is the 1st choice but reality can be different, which one do you use in a sunny or a bit cloudy day hiking or skiing?
Which filter do you use in a sunny hiking or ski day?
- Thread starter thewhatever
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I almost always use an ND16 on a bright sunny day. I've had one or 2 scenarios where a 32 would have been slightly better but for the most part the 16 and maybe the 8 on occasion are all you really need for the spark. Since the spark only shoots 30fps you want to use a filter to get your shutter speed down to double that. So if your shooting at 30fps you want a shutter speed of 60 (1/60th of a second). About 90% of the time for me, an ND16 does the trick.
But on a separate note about filters, BEWARE! IT IS VERY EASY TO MESS UP YOUR GIMBAL WHEN INSTALLING FILTERS! personally I try to use them as little as possible because I frequently get gimbal motor overloads/error with a filter installed (especially in sport mode). Although cycling power on the spark fixes it every time
But on a separate note about filters, BEWARE! IT IS VERY EASY TO MESS UP YOUR GIMBAL WHEN INSTALLING FILTERS! personally I try to use them as little as possible because I frequently get gimbal motor overloads/error with a filter installed (especially in sport mode). Although cycling power on the spark fixes it every time
Oh also, most filter sets for the spark only come with ND4, 8, 16 and sometimes a UV and CPL. kinda rare, although definitely not unheard of for a filter kit for the spark to come with a ND32. For whatever reason I usually see them sold separately
You get 1/60 iso 100 with snow that boost light? I was reviewing old photos I took with my Fuji camera at ski and even with some clouds it was about 1/2000 easily iso 200. A nd16 would reach 1/125 no? Or drones cameras are different?
Sorry I assumed you were talking about shooting video, not pictures. Everything I just said really only applies to videos. The whole double the frame rate thing is so that each frame has a small amount of blur to lead into the next frame and make everything seem smooth to the eye.
But none of what I was saying really applies to still photography. For stills it's more a matter of what you're looking to do. Do you want a crystal clear shot Frozen in Time? Then you may want to use a light filter or no filter at all along with a very high shutter speed. If you want an amount of blur or motion in the picture (ie. Blurred shot of moving water) use a darker filter and lower the shutter speed. At least that's how I use ND filters for still photography. I don't know if that's technically correct though
But none of what I was saying really applies to still photography. For stills it's more a matter of what you're looking to do. Do you want a crystal clear shot Frozen in Time? Then you may want to use a light filter or no filter at all along with a very high shutter speed. If you want an amount of blur or motion in the picture (ie. Blurred shot of moving water) use a darker filter and lower the shutter speed. At least that's how I use ND filters for still photography. I don't know if that's technically correct though
Actually one of my favorite spark YouTubers (Steve coutts) just put out a new video all about filters and the spark. Here's the link:
No I was speaking about videos, but as I never took videos at ski my only personal source of comparison are my photos
@mickyacandal Ok I have found some videos I took with my Yi Cam at ski, I forgot about them, aperture is nearly the same f2.8 ISO 100.
Hiking with end of dayk light was 1/320 and at ski it was between 1/1200 and 1/1450. So a ND16 is plenty enough for hiking but for ski dropping 1/1200 - 1/1450 to 1/60 will be hard no?
Hiking with end of dayk light was 1/320 and at ski it was between 1/1200 and 1/1450. So a ND16 is plenty enough for hiking but for ski dropping 1/1200 - 1/1450 to 1/60 will be hard no?
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Polar Pro has an app that includes a calculator to choose exactly correct filter
For sun + snow I set ISO to 100 and shutter speed to 1/60. Start with ND32 and get Spark in the air. Then check histogram to confirm proper exposure. Adjust filter from there.
The only advantage to using ND filter is to slow shutter speed to create a little motion blur for "cinematic effect" for video. If this isn't important to you then just skip the filter and let the shutter be super fast. For still pictures ND filter has no benefit - just use polarizing filter to cut the glare from snow, standing water and bright sun reflections.
For sun + snow I set ISO to 100 and shutter speed to 1/60. Start with ND32 and get Spark in the air. Then check histogram to confirm proper exposure. Adjust filter from there.
The only advantage to using ND filter is to slow shutter speed to create a little motion blur for "cinematic effect" for video. If this isn't important to you then just skip the filter and let the shutter be super fast. For still pictures ND filter has no benefit - just use polarizing filter to cut the glare from snow, standing water and bright sun reflections.
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